I think I may have found it. I think I may have found the best food in Bologna. I know, it sounds impossible. No such thing could exist. There is simply too much delicious food made in this city to find "the best." But still, this place, Terra del Sole (Via Giuseppe Petroni, 3), was something different. I knew from the second I walked in that this food was going to be something special. Maybe it was the fact that the place, which is probably only 20 ft x 10 ft in addition to the small kitchen behind the counter, was packed with people coming in and out, yelling orders to the young woman preparing orders behind a raised counter. Maybe it was that the menu del giorno was hand written on a small chalkboard. Perhaps it was the small glass display case in front, overflowing with golden arancini (risotto balls) of scamorza cheese, peas, tomatoes and pancetta fried into perfect egg-shaped bundles, the deep brown calzones with neatly hand-folded edges, and the thick pieces of foccacia topped with potatoes, mushrooms, and rosemary. Or maybe, it was the unpretentious decor, with garlic and dried herbs hanging from the ceiling, copper pots on the walls, and rusted bells over the door which clattered every time someone walked in our out (so constantly).Whatever it was, I knew it was going to be good.
So I yelled my order up from the board up to the woman behind the counter: "Orchiette with greens." And then I waited. This place may be small and mostly take-out (there are a few small bars on the side with tall chairs, and with only six places to sit, these are almost always occupied), but it is not fast food. After 20 minutes of waiting, fearing that the woman had forgotten my order or not understood my not-so-perfect Italian, she brought me a small brown bag with my pasta inside. I took it, along with a piece of foccocia with verdure (greens), to the ECCO offices down the street to eat.
The pasta was sublime. The orchetti themselves were chewy with a nice bite, but soft and delicate nonetheless. They were topped with flavorful olive oil and breadcrumbs for a little crunch. The combination of the olive oil, vegetables, and breadcrumbs, along with no lack of salt, was incredible. Fresh, full of flavor and hearty while still carefully composed, this pasta was fantastic.
The foccacia was some of the best I've had as well. The sides were dark brown and well cooked, the bread chewy while still soft, salty and flavorful both from the dough itself and the vegetables on top.
The food at Terra del Sole is from the region of Puglia, in the far south of Italy making the heel of the boot. Whereas the food of Bologna tends to be heavier with a focus on heavy meat sauces and cream for the pasta, this was much lighter in comparison, while still packing the full punch of flavor that a ragu which has been simmering for hours can. Is this food better than that of Bologna? No, but tasting the food of Puglia, of the south, was a nice change of pace. Is this the best restaurant in Bologna? Also no, but it is excellent food prepared simply with respect for the quality of ingredients. I tend to find my "new favorite place ever" in this city about every five days, because there are simply so many wonderful (and in this case, extremely reasonably priced) places to stumble upon. But Terra del Sole was something special, and I'm sure I will be returning often.
For dinner, Lizzie and I put some things together. Here is some croustini with ceci (chickpeas), beet greens, and garlic.
And some pasta with pesto!
