The food in this city is so great that I couldn't leave without having at least 2 meals before 4:00pm, not including breakfast since I woke up at 10:30am. For my first lunch, we went to a bagel place at the recommendation of a friend's friend. Did I just write bagel? In Italy? Could this landmark of New York Jewish food be found in the city which is home to such Tuscan classics as steak florentine, Tuscan red wines, salty fried vegetables, and well, saltless bread? Yes, it could be found. And it may be the best bagel spot in Italy - in a country where this staple of American breakfast is rarely, if ever, found.
The extremely friendly owner started Snack Bar Anna (Via dei Ginori, 26r, Firenze) after moving from Bologna. We asked if he would move back to Bologna and open a bagel shop there, but he kindly declined. I ordered a sesame bagel with cream cheese, smoked salmon, tomato and red onion. Needless to say, I was in heaven. I had been missing bagels so much, and it was so wonderful to have one.
For my second lunch, I returned to Nerbone at the Mercanto Centrale for my favorite sandwich. The market is a food destination all its own, and definitely worth stopping by just for the free samples of Tuscan ham and amazing cheeses. Here is how I described Nerbone, a true institution in Florence since 1872, in an email to a friend:
Its just this little stall in the market that makes the most amazing sandwiches (and other food too) ever. I tried ordering their bollito panino both days but since I was there after 1pm both days they were already out (its boiled beef, which they are famous for), but I had the tripe sandwich, which they are also famous for, both days, and it was out of this world. This intense butcher guy takes tripe out of this big pot and cuts it up some crazy way and puts it on these delicious buns, and then adds a little salsa verde, which is fresh herbs, garlic and olive oil, and salsa piccante, which is spicy sauce, and salt and pepper. The meat is warm and salty and delicious (and surprisingly not chewy) and the sauces have a ton of flavor and its just the best thing ever. I had it the first day, and when I went back the 2nd day I got almost half the group to try the tripe. Also had this amazing pea, pancetta and onion thing there that was just dripping in olive oil and so salty and so so good.For those of you wondering, tripe is cow stomach. And yes, it's that good, I promise.
Here are the pics. Enjoy.
Luckily, I'm going back to Florence in a week and a half when some friends from the U.S. visit. I guess I just might have to go back for another sandwich...
For dinner, just a little pasta with tomato sauce.
